http://web.mac.com/asanacycles/iWeb/Asana%20Cycles/Bicycle%20Mechanics/Bicycle%20Mechanics.html Howdy all: Here’s a few basic bike mechanic vids. iWeb 1.1.2 http://web.mac.com/asanacycles/iWeb/Asana%20Cycles/Bicycle%20Mechanics/http%3A/www.mac.com/st/1/sharedassets/1.1/Common/Templates/Gazette/Blog/Seperator%203-5.jpg http://web.mac.com/asanacycles/iWeb/Asana%20Cycles/Bicycle%20Mechanics/Bicycle%20Mechanics.html 60 Howdy all: Here’s a few basic bike mechanic vids. Howdy all: Here’s a few basic bike mechanic vids. http://web.mac.com/asanacycles/iWeb/Asana%20Cycles/Bicycle%20Mechanics/3AA23442-527B-4D63-8580-BD8A1062C5B4.html http://web.mac.com/asanacycles/iWeb/Asana%20Cycles/Bicycle%20Mechanics/3AA23442-527B-4D63-8580-BD8A1062C5B4.html Sun, 17 Jun 2007 23:21:37 -0700 Remove and Replace: Brake levers, shifters, grips, cables and housing. Difficulty: Easy Tools: 1. Allen wrench set 2. Torque wrench 3. Wire cutters 4. Housing cutters 5. pliers (needle noose too would be good) 6. Bike stand 7. Misc: i.e. chain lube 00:37:42 Remove and Replace: Brake levers, shifters, grips, cables and housing. Difficulty: Easy Tools: 1. Allen wrench set 2. Torque wrench 3. Wire cutters 4. Housing cutters 5. pliers (needle noose too would b Remove and Replace: Brake levers, shifters, grips, cables and housing. Difficulty: Easy Tools: 1. Allen wrench set 2. Torque wrench 3. Wire cutters 4. Housing cutters 5. pliers (needle noose too would be good) 6. Bike stand 7. Misc: i.e. chain lube http://web.mac.com/asanacycles/iWeb/Asana%20Cycles/Bicycle%20Mechanics/FE1684D8-A87A-4A6D-9177-36115D467325.html http://web.mac.com/asanacycles/iWeb/Asana%20Cycles/Bicycle%20Mechanics/FE1684D8-A87A-4A6D-9177-36115D467325.html Sat, 16 Jun 2007 00:42:08 -0700 <a href="http://web.mac.com/asanacycles/iWeb/Asana%20Cycles/Bicycle%20Mechanics/FE1684D8-A87A-4A6D-9177-36115D467325_files/How%20to%20true%20a%20wheel%28compressed%29.mov"><img src="http://web.mac.com/asanacycles/iWeb/Asana%20Cycles/Bicycle%20Mechanics/Images/How%20to%20true%20a%20wheel%28compressed%29.jpg" style="float:left; padding-right:10px; padding-bottom:10px; width:109px; height:79px;"/></a> In this case we are using a rear MAVIC SpeedCity wheel. Difficulty: Advanced Tools: 1. Truing stand 2. Dishing tool 3. Spoke wrench(s) 4. Tensiometer Time: 5 to 10 minutes. (when you are good at it) Spokes are STRONG! when they break they pull apart like taffy The hub hangs in the 00:48:09 In this case we are using a rear MAVIC SpeedCity wheel. Difficulty: Advanced Tools: 1. Truing stand 2. Dishing tool 3. Spoke wrench(s) 4. Tensiometer Time: 5 to 10 minutes. (when you are In this case we are using a rear MAVIC SpeedCity wheel. Difficulty: Advanced Tools: 1. Truing stand 2. Dishing tool 3. Spoke wrench(s) 4. Tensiometer Time: 5 to 10 minutes. (when you are good at it) Spokes are STRONG! when they break they pull apart like taffy The hub hangs in the rim. Spokes are strong when pulling. When you have a plain spoke in your hand, you can easily push it out of shape, but if you try to pull it, it is VERY STRONG. It behaves sort of like rope, string, etc. In fact, when you think of spokes, think along the lines of piano wire tension. The rim has its own strength too. Its shape, unlaced, should be true. When a hub is laced to the rim, the spokes start to pull, and tension builds up in the hub flanges, eyelets, spokes, nipples, etc. At first the spokes are loose in the eyelets of the rim when you first lace up the wheel. (Building a wheel) You bring all the spoke nipples to the rim eyelets with a nipple driver, at this point, it is referred to as “Zero”. That is the spokes are slightly tightened up enough to seat the nipples in the rim eyelets, there is little to no tension in the spokes. (and the rim should be pretty straight in the stand) Each spoke nipple is then tightened up using a spoke wrench. Counter clockwise 1/2 turn increments is what you really should use at first. This small amount (at this stage) applies light tension. As you make your way around the wheel think of it as adding “layers of tension” to the wheel. Every so often you stop to dis-stress the spokes, and let things get a chance to seat more if needed. On to TRUING. There are two sides to a wheel. The Drive side and the Non-drive side. Spokes radiate out from the hub on both, Drive and Non-drive sides. When the wheel is out of true, in this case lets say it pulls, or wobbles to the left (non-drive side). Basically what you need to do is pull the rim to the right (drive side) at the point where its out of true. And the way you do that is to use the correct spoke wrench on the spoke nipples and make the adjustments. Typically what you would do in a case like this, is to pull the rim to the drive side by tightening the drive side spoke nipple at the wobble and possibly loosen the non-drive side a bit by turning the spoke wrench clockwise. This pulls the rim to the drive side, and releases tension/distance on the spokes of the non-drive side. Hopefully the rim pulls into shape. (On Tension) By all means, if the above was actual, and the wheel had been properly built up with uniform spoke tension, and lets say i did a bunny hop up a curb, but actually hit the curb, and now my wheel is out of wack (true). What the actual damage is that the rim is actually bent. To now make that bent rim (bent wheel) straight, and behave like a true wheel, we have to pull the rim back into shape. But pulling on spokes adds tension. However you can often let some tension loose on one side, and pull it tighter towards the other. A give and take of sorts. The wheel will NEVER be the same again after something like this. In order to get the wheel straight, the tension is now not uniform. That means some spokes have significantly more tension than others. This wheel is now prone to going out of true. Why? When a wheel is first built the rim is straight and spoke tension has been uniformly applied. The tension keeps the spokes in place. Remember that the hub hangs in the rim by the spokes. If a spoke is loose it is easily pushed out of shape. Repeating this flexing action, a spoke does not like! Typically they will crack, then snap, due to the flex cycle. It happens almost instantly, and all you hear is a tang from your wheel. When you flex a spoke back and forth, it will fail. When you pull on a spoke it is incredibly http://web.mac.com/asanacycles/iWeb/Asana%20Cycles/Bicycle%20Mechanics/402BF428-7974-4978-AD4F-4FBFBE570930.html http://web.mac.com/asanacycles/iWeb/Asana%20Cycles/Bicycle%20Mechanics/402BF428-7974-4978-AD4F-4FBFBE570930.html Wed, 13 Jun 2007 16:16:09 -0700 Remove and replace a cogset. In this example, we are using a Shimano LX 34x11t cogset on a Mavic SpeedCity rear wheel. Tool list: 1. Shimano lock ring tool 2. Chain whip 3. Large Crescent wrench 4. Grease torque: 40Nm How to: 1. Remove rear wheel 2. Remove QR/Skewer 3. Place the cor 00:10:01 Remove and replace a cogset. In this example, we are using a Shimano LX 34x11t cogset on a Mavic SpeedCity rear wheel. Tool list: 1. Shimano lock ring tool 2. Chain whip 3. Large Crescent wrench Remove and replace a cogset. In this example, we are using a Shimano LX 34x11t cogset on a Mavic SpeedCity rear wheel. Tool list: 1. Shimano lock ring tool 2. Chain whip 3. Large Crescent wrench 4. Grease torque: 40Nm How to: 1. Remove rear wheel 2. Remove QR/Skewer 3. Place the corrrect Lock ring tool into place. 3. Hold cogset in place using chain whip. 4. Use large Crescent wrench to turn lock ring tool counter clockwise to loosen. 5. By hand, use lock ring tool, to finish the removal. Rotate counter clockwise. 6. Identify “landmark groove/spline” a. this is the thin spline on the Freehub spline pattern. b. Campy and Shimano patterns differ. 7. Try to remove all of the cogs in one unit. a. if the cogset has a bunch of spacers, be mindful to remember the way they are stacked. that is...try to remember the sequence. Its easiest to just keep this all together, and not worry about it. 8. Wipe clean the Freehub, and reapply fresh new grease. 9. Install new cogset or clean up the old one, whatever... 10. By hand, install the lock ring. a. If this is a new cogset, grease the threads of the lock ring. 11. Using the Crescent wrench tighten (clockwise) the lock ring. 12. Follow manufacturer’s torque specs. a. In this case, I believe it states 40N-m on the lock ring itself. 13. Torque to spec. finished peace..d http://web.mac.com/asanacycles/iWeb/Asana%20Cycles/Bicycle%20Mechanics/A0CEEB01-FBF4-4414-9391-C218BB4422A3.html http://web.mac.com/asanacycles/iWeb/Asana%20Cycles/Bicycle%20Mechanics/A0CEEB01-FBF4-4414-9391-C218BB4422A3.html Wed, 13 Jun 2007 14:34:01 -0700 How to fix a flat. that is... “How to replace the inner tube”. In this day and age, most people simply replace the inner tube. me...I often patch tubes. this vid is about just simply replacing the tube. quick and easy some pointers. Tools: 1. Pump 2. Tire levers (hopefully not) 3. Patch kit (hop 00:10:18 How to fix a flat. that is... “How to replace the inner tube”. In this day and age, most people simply replace the inner tube. me...I often patch tubes. this vid is about just simply replacing the How to fix a flat. that is... “How to replace the inner tube”. In this day and age, most people simply replace the inner tube. me...I often patch tubes. this vid is about just simply replacing the tube. quick and easy some pointers. Tools: 1. Pump 2. Tire levers (hopefully not) 3. Patch kit (hopefully we are just changing the tube) How to: 1. Shift gears into “Little/Little”. Little cog, little chainring 2. Open brake. a. Campy, push brake stop pin to “Open” position in brake/shifter lever b. Shimano, rotate brake stop lever (on the caliper) to the open position. 3. Open quick release (QR) 4. Tap rear wheel out of rear dropouts. 5. Remove valve stem cap/valve stem nut. 6. Open presta valve (if applicable) 7. let out any remaining air. 8. Face cogset away from you 9. Place wheel on the ground in front of you, with cogset facing away, valve stem at the bottom of the wheel. 10. Peel non drive side of tire bead away from rim at bead seat hook. 11. continue all the way around 12. pull out tube, starting 180 degrees opposite of valve stem. 13. At the valve stem, push the valve stem/tube out of rim. 14. Remove tube. Replace tube: 1. Partially inflate tube. (enough to give it shape. that is all.) 2. Place valve stem in thru the valve stem hole in rim. 3. Lay/feed tube into tyre along the diameter of the rim. 4. Place the non drive side of the tyre bead onto the rim, starting at the valve stem. Be mindful to ensure that the bead of the tyre is actually below the bead seat hook of the rim. a. Push stem up to help get inner tube into the tyre. (if needed) 5. Work into place the remainder of the tyre bead. a. make sure the tyre bead is in the rim and that no inner tube is protruding. 6. Inflate to specs. In this case 8.5bar 7. Close presta valve, and install valve stem nut and cap. 8. Place rear wheel in frame. a. We know the bike is shifted into “Little/Little”, so we place the chain on the small cog when we place the rear wheel into the rear dropouts. 9. Place bike on ground, and readjust QR/rearwheel/axle in dropouts if needed. a. Make sure the wheel is in the frame correctly. 10. Hold bike up and shift the chain into about the middle of the cogset. 11. Ready to roll....done. peace...d